Come From Away to Come Home : Twillingate

Prior to Change Islands was Twillingate.

At first it looked like Twillingate might be a bit of a bust. It started great - our room was wonderful, modernly appointed, in the heritage property Hodge's Premises.

Newfoundland premises were the shore operations of cod fishers. They were also called "plantations" or "rooms" (thus the St. John's Museum - The Rooms). Premises were large buildings in which the business accounts for the larger fishing businesses were kept and made, and often their mercantile operations as well. These were general stores, on the ground floor, where food and cloth and hats and kitchenware and tools and rope and all other necessary items could be bought. Even tea cups and lace for those that lusted after some semblance of luxury.

Twillingate's Hodge's Premises, built and operated by the two Hodge brothers in 1914, operated as intended until the 1960s. Renovated, then sold to a local hotel, then renovated again recently, it has about 6 suites, with a coffee/gift shop below. We have a peek-a-boo water view, or would have if the fog lifted.

We booked on to a boat trip to see any local icebergs, and were told that today's trips were cancelled due to the windy weather and the forecast wasn't good, but we signed on anyway in hope.

Food first night was not stellar. However it was pretty good given that there was very little else open (a taco food truck with picnic tables did not appeal given the -6 degrees with the wind chill).

There are lots of trails on this island, which is joined to another island by a causeway, which is joined to the Island proper by another causeway. The trails were a big reason we were here, but the icebergs were another. Would we see any at all?

Foggy, cold and wet, and windy as heck the next morning, we set out for our first trail near the lighthouse. The fog horn was so loud I almost jumped out of my skin, but the trail went down and to the left to a lovely crashing Sandy Cove and the horn became more distant.

Fantastic little coffee shop - closed. Lighthouse museum - closed.

Next trail was a shortish one - Top of Twillingate. Great trail, steep but well marked, 4 wonderful lookouts into still pretty foggy day.

Boat trips that day - cancelled. Dinner theatre - closed.

My research had found a seafood restaurant a short drive away, so we gave it a go. Score! Doyle Sansome had lobster, crab, excellent chowder, shrimps, scallops, and onward we ate our way through the menu.

On our way back.....we saw an iceberg, across the causeway! Hiding behind a tiny island.

We took a little lane that trundled to a stop by an old fisherman's house. I know that because the old fisherman was standing outside greeting us and others, and allowing us photographic access to "his" berg, foregrounded by his excellent, neat woodpile. if you ever need someone to stack your wood, hire a Newfoundlander. He seemed bemused by all the attention but happy to chat. We didn't want to turn him into a museum exhibit so focused our camera on the iceberg and woodpile instead.

Icebergs are approximately 10,000 years old, formed before the last ice age. Almost all of Newfoundland's icebergs come from Greenland and take up to three years to get here, melting as they go. They are 85% melted already, before they even get here to what is called "Iceberg alley". As the sea temperatures rise in spring, they have only a few days before they melt completely. It would be great to see one up close.

Next day, tour operators - closed. Shops - closed. Boat trips - cancelled.

The little town museum was open, and so was the winery. A winery! Dandelion, rhubarb and berry based wines, it sounded grisly but the dry options were actually very nice and they ship to BC. They even had a partridgeberry port that was quite surprisingly excellent.

Auk Winery tasting

More trails today. One of which seemed quite busy despite the grey and wind - lots of cars parked at the trailhead. We decided to join in and about 25 minutes in, we reached a beach, turned and saw this!

We continued up the hill to look down on the iceberg, and the sun came out.

Back at the beach, we could see bits of the iceberg had broken off and drifted to shore. We had a taste of millennia-old ice.

We celebrated with lunch at the same place as yesterday (there was not much option anyway). Wonderful mature women waitresses, friendly, we were called "my darling" about 25 times over the course of our lunch. Excellent seafood and not many people there. It deserves to be better known.

Back we came over the causeway, to see the best advertisement sign ever.

Right there, we saw a local character's tiny museum was open. Once inside, we heard he was taking small groups out in his little open boat that afternoon! Given his proximity to the causeway and both icebergs, he was able to operate where Twillingate town's boats were not.

We were already wearing 4 or 5 layers of clothing but Captain Dave dressed us with another 2 or 3.

It was cold, but sunny and sparkly blue. We saw both icebergs really close up, and the light changed with every photo depending on which angle we were in.

Looks like an angel with outspread wings

Coming under the tiny bridge of the causeway, we had to inch carefully to avoid hitting a piece of iceberg that had broken off and was already floating to the other side of the island.