Sunday, June 19, 2022

To the Tippy Tippy Tip

There is an island off the north coast of Newfoundland, Quirpon Island, the north point of which is the northernmost point of Newfoundland, so of course we had to get there.

Not only can we get there, but there is a lighthouse in which we can stay! It was available for only one night so we jumped at the chance, and joined 18 other people on this amazing little piece of the province. 

We were lucky in having time to book the owner and his boat for a tour at 11:30am, where we circumnavigated the island and saw a wonderful selection of icebergs. It was a sparkling day, with big waves and winds.

at the dock, the island in sight

stocking up the essentials


icebergs ho!

our night's accommodation

The captain let us off at the south tip and we walked the 5.5 km trail along the shore to the top. The other guests weren't coming until later in the afternoon so we had the island to ourselves, along with several hundred seabirds.

wild coast
coffee stop

seemingly barren, Quirpon Island
is actually teeming with plant life
cloudless!

Ed, the owner, told us at the 3km mark, to "turn left at the skulls", the most intriguing direction we have had in a while, so that we might see the ancient footprints of Maritime Archaic people who lived here several thousand years ago.

turn left!

We also noted a new project Ed is adding, a glass tube with a king-sized bed in it that, when finished, will jut out over the cliffs for a dizzying night about the Strait of Belle Isle. I don't fancy being the first to try it! Nor do I fancy using the little outhouse just behind it, especially on a pitch-black night in a gale. I imagine it will be popular with those coming in by helicopter (kidding, the 'copter pad is for coast guard)


Martin on the helicopter pad.... 

.....signaling something

It was a special evening, with a lovely little room looking out over the strait, and we spent a lot of time watching seals and a minke whale down below in the surf. 

almost there

home for the night

snow and surf

still a fair bit of snow on June 16


In the little observation room (hot as a sauna!) we watched the sunset, and saw an arctic fox (mid-moult) go by.  

the viewing shed


arctic fox

It's hard to imagine this strait was completely icebound only a couple of months ago, and we hear polar bears occasionally walk shore before the ice breaks up and they are stranded. They generally swim across to the Island of Newfoundland where they wait out the summer and then just walk back to Labrador when the ice (and the seals) return.

Only one night, but a very memorable one.  

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