All Change Please

The blog as been AWOL for a few days as we were in Change Islands, small and remote, without wifi or consistent cell coverage.

Change Islands is actually 3 islands - 2 joined by a 30 metre bridge and the other not at all. The town of Change Islands is probably 150 people, tops. I do not know what it is called Change Islands, no one had an answer for me. It is a quiet backwater where young people move away to find jobs, and their parents work 3 or 4 jobs (home care, working in the fish plant, unloading the crab or lobster catches - whatever work there is on offer).

Owner and local legend Beulah Oakes was delayed in arriving here from her winter digs in Deer Lake, but to the rescue came two angels of hospitality, the Trudys. Here were two women with the same name, first and last, as one had married the other's brother! To us they were Trudy 1 and Trudy 2.

They didn't have the reservation book, which was with Beulah, so didn't know for sure who was arriving on this first day the Seven Oakes Inn was open for the season, which was the day we arrived. "Who are you? Ok, well, pick your room, #5 or #6. Do you want dinner? Cod ok with you?"

Inn at the top of the hill

The place, not lived in for several months, was cold, but spotless, and thankfully there was enough food for a fantastic home-cooked meal of beef soup, pan-fried cod with lots of vegetables (glory be - I've missed vegetables!) and blueberry cake in vanilla sauce. Not licensed. That's fine by us.

The outside 55km wind gusts and steel-grey cold did not dampen our stay. We duly did the Squid Jiggers Trail, which , as usual, was incredibly well marked and scenic. 

lots of this!

so windy the outhouse fell over

amusing trail signs

There being nothing else to see and nothing else open, we walked back home and greeted the few other travelers who also surprised Trudy 1 and Trudy 2. 

But did the Trudys show it? No, they did not. 

Goodness knows how they found enough food to put together big breakfasts and big dinners for 7 people from the little local shop that was open for 1.5 hours (Beulah was bringing supplies in her U-haul). There are no other restaurants or even cafes open on the entire Change Islands, which has all of 180 inhabitants. 

a little treacherous!

view from our room

And yet, the road was excellent (no potholes that seem to plague the whole of Newfoundland) and the ferry - my goodness the ferry! How did this tiny community merit a ferry - large, cheap and four times a day. If the ferry didn't stop on its way to more populated and prosperous Fogo Island I imagine this place would be deserted within a year.

the ferry line up and interesting signage
- it cost us $13.50 for two, plus car

ferry held in place with 3 ropes, attached by 1 guy driving from bow to stern 4 times a day - hope he has a good book with him!

Time slowed. We 7 chatted in the sitting room, ate together in the dining room, and laughed each other up to our bedrooms for a quiet night. No wifi meant great conversation - it was like going back in time. 

Newfoundland pony refuge on Change Islands